News from Neighbour

Dear readers,
This gossips came from DP's blog...

This could be nothing more than fashion gossip

Dear Shaded Viewers,

This is definitely neither confirmed nor a fact ....but strong echos have it that this could very well be the final Dior Homme collection designed by Hedi Slimane. This rumor has been circulating ever since Galliano presented his signature men's wear collection and obviously it was a bit premature. The fashion buzz has it that YSL has offered Hedi Slimane creative control of both the men's and women's collections. Underscore - this is still a rumor. If it turns out to be valid, confirmation no doubt will appear first in Suzie Menkes' column in the IHT.

Meanwhile everyone is looking forward to the Dior Homme show today.

Later,

Diane


I wish it won' be true...Galliano for Dior Homme...

Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette

The stylized account of a naive Viennese girl who, in 1774, became the queen of France at age 19. And to see how fantastic Ms. Coppola blends lavish French history with rock&roll.

Teaser: Marie Antoinette

Hedi with PaulP.

Hedi Slimane invites Canadian artist Paul P. to take part in the Dior Homme spring 2006 campaign with a show of drawings. P. is great. He drew Federico Mosquera so Homme.

Also, As Tears Go By, Slimane's solo exhibition is on view at Galerie Almine Rech in Paris, through Febraury, 18, featuring large-scale photos from his Birth of a Cult book and rock-related sculptures.

Grande Dame of Fashion#1: Diana Vreeland

“Never worry about the facts, just project an image to the public”

Diana Vreeland was the twentieth century’s greatest arbiter of style and elegance. As fashion editor at Harpers Bazaar for twenty-five years, Editor in Chief of Vogue and creator and ambassador of fantastic exhibits at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Diana, with her passion for living, her legendary wit and charm energized the world of style and fashion for over fifty years. Not bad for a woman who had no intention of actually working for a living, ("work? What an interesting idea.")

Diana Vreeland can be described as a wellborn social butterfly that dabbled in the world of fashion, exercising her unique ability to give the fantasy starved American woman whatever it was she wanted to see. Not born into wealth, just socially well connected, Diana was groomed by her mother to be like the women who graced the covers of the fashion magazines she came to manage.

Born in Paris, the daughter of a Scottish farmer and an American mother, she was raised in a “between the wars” European world. “My parents spent their days having a good time,” Diana has been heard to say, “They never contributed a bloody thing and they and all their friends lived the life of Riley”.

Education for Diana and her younger sister was somewhat erratic. Rather than have Diana fail at an academically minded school, her mother sent her to various ballet schools, the first being the Michael Fokine ballet school, the only school run by an Imperial Master from Russia. “I went to dancing school and I didn’t give a damn about anything else. All I’ve ever cared about since, is movement, rhythm, being in touch and discipline. What Fokine taught. And it’s stood me in good stead all my life—it’s forever. When I discovered dancing, I learned to dream.”

Diana Vreeland did not actually begin her formal career until sometime in her mid thirties. She was wife to an unwealthy but socially accepted handsome American banker, Reed Vreeland, and mother of two sons. Her early days were spent as part of a milieu that effortlessly blended society and artist in a whirl of activity. She was a friend to Coco Chanel, The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes and Christian Bernard.

Most of these days were spent in designer showrooms being fitted for everything from clothing to hats and gloves.

But she paid almost nothing for her designer clothes. For the French Designers, Diana had what they called jolie/laide, which means beautiful/ugly. In fact, Diana was considered by most to be very ugly, one journalist in America suggesting that her looks were reminiscent of a cigar store wooden Indian. To the world, however, it didn’t matter. Couturiers saw her as an original, a mannequin du monde. So they offered her the clothing and accessories for nothing, in exchange for her chic manner and visibility.

When Reed moved the family to New York Diana continued living the way she always had until Caramel Snow, the then editor of Harpers Bazaar magazine, approached her. Snow had the uncanny ability to sniff out virgin talent and wanted Diana as Fashion Editor suggesting that she would be paid for what she was already doing.

Diana accepted the position and soon began changing the way fashion was reported to the public. Instead of simply reporting the styles and trends of fashion, Diana began to create, to motivate and popularize, certain objects, attitudes and ideas. She did this with her legendary observations, comments, wit and humour, keeping the American public, especially women, always wanting more. “The bikini is the most important invention since the atom bomb”, was one statement. “Never fear being vulgar, just boring”, was another.

On one occasion during a fashion layout for Vogue magazine, Diana was informed that a phrase, “windbreaker” that she was using, was already copyrighted. Breathlessly she rushed into the copy room and demanded, "Quick, what's another word for breaking wind?” On another occasion she created a two-page layout of a nude female lying face down in the sand, her derriere covered in a large black straw hat. The caption read, “Spend the summer under a big black sailor.”

Diana Vreeland had the unique ability to always think “outside the box”. Even the décor of her apartment on Park Avenue was an original. Friends with Billy Baldwin, the famous New York decorator who actually worked with her on the project, Diana said that she wanted her apartment to look like a garden in Hell. Actually it did not look like a garden in hell but it was completely decorated in lacquer reds with scarlet coloured floral wall coverings, memorabilia and books. In the center of her living room was a bright red sofa piled high with an impressive collection of cushions.

In terms of her personal style, Diana loved simple elegant clothing with splashy accessories. Exotic jewelry, hats and wonderful shoes were among her favorite fashion items. “I’d like to have on the most luxurious cashmere sweater; the most luxurious satin pants, very beautiful stockings, very beautiful shoes—marvelous shoes—and whatever would be suitable around the neck.”

Diana Vreeland was a visionary in the world of style, elegance and fashion. “People who eat white bread have no dreams.” She was known to say. “Without emotion, there is no beauty” and “What sells is hope”. The stories she told and the tales she spun were nothing less than memorable and she is still quoted today. The American public hung on to every word and on one occasion a brave journalist asked her, “Mrs. Vreeland, is that fact or fiction?” After a small pause she replied, “It’s faction”.

MMM at Teatro Puccini

I left a hostel around 7 to catch the bus to Teatro Puccini. In the bus, I met 2 guys, they're so outstanding from the people. That's why we can easily differenciate fashion people from the others. Even they dress in [their] plain and normal way, there're always something like an strange aura out off them. Anyway, My plan was to look for Mr. Martin Margiela in person. i arrived at Puccini around 7.30. Two fashionable guys asked me with their Anglo-Italian accent, without looking around "Excuse me...Where is the tee-ar-ter?" "Tee-a-ter is in front of you" answered them.The party was too full, I had to fled from the hall to the bar, which the only nonalcoholic they had is Schweppes! Embarrassingly asked for a glass of still [I honestly didn't know whether it's tab or mineral] "Apperitivi" is a pre-dinner cocktail in Italy, MMM's apperitivi were normal tuna canapes and some opened-sandwiches, served with Champange. Firstly I didn't know how was it called "a party" because it's just a theatre-hall, full of fashion peoples, chit-chatting and looking at the big screen, which playing Puccini red carpet live. Suddenly appeared on the screen, a troop of white limos and vespas, ridden by models in white outfits, marched in the hall and presented the re-edited white collection of MMM.WOW! It's so impressive. Everything was so Margiela; the presentaion, color, and the Frenchs. While capturing the atmosphere and people...at a glance...there was Mrs. Menkes. Yes, she was, Mrs. Suzy Menkes. I didn't expect to meet her. Oh my god...I totally forgot Mr. Margiela but Mrs. Menkes disappeared in a second. Then the party was over. I missed both Mr & Mrs. M. 9 PM, there was no time to regret because I had a train to catch in 30 minutes and my stuff was still at the hostel!! Run, Pun Run. I arrived the station on time but train was delayed for 45 minutes!! Arrivederci Firenze, Ci Vediamo dopo.

No.8

First Impression of Earth | The Strokes What makes a band that so perfect to fashion? 1st] Sound of Julian, son of Elite modeling's founder, is so elite. 2nd] They hired Hedi Slimane as a costume designer for their tour. 3rd] They have Nick Valensi. I first heard Juicebox single in commercial ad before the Happy Tree Friend clip!! My first impression in "First Impression" were as I hoped, I love it. This 3rd album is darker, maturer, and smarter. If you love Last Nite, you gonna like You Only Live Once. Of course I'm also love their first two albums.

Track recommend: You Only Live Once

A Giant Leap of the Urban Wear

This is the pararel story line of MMM episode, I left the Fortezza, catch a shuttle to Stazione Leopolda. This "WELCOME TO MY HOUSE" was projected by Pitti Immagine Uomo, focused on the urban street brands. As recently, I checked in as a press from Bangkok, given an very ugly yellow pass-pin. I entered their "HOUSE", the former train station, its atmosphere was a sampling of the street universe. The setting encompassed the individual exhibitors’ stands and steeps them in a dynamic and global metropolitan context: a skate park, a huge concert stage that becomes a ramp. The exhibit devoted to street culture that will make its debut at this edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo. I did an interview with Simone Legno, an Italian born-LA based-Japanese obsessed creative director and designer for tokidoki. [www.tokidoki.it] He gave some interesting point of view to the urban brand. The rear-zone of the house dedicated to DUST, a retrospective exhibition of Rick Owens. He premiered his A/W menswear last night. So, the rest I saw was DUSTDAM n DUSTPUMP. Of course I love D-PUMP more. It reflected the humorous of Owens, his life-size topless statue, hung from the roof of the Alcatraz area, urinating [aka peeing] to the sand. I wasn't sure that all of the wax was in life-size. If it's correct, Mr. Owens would have something interesting more than his genius. :) The right wing of the house was full of Be@rbrick. In Europe Be@rbrick has been known as the expression in the way so close to street culture, but is not yet popular as in Japan. This exhibition was in the world wide tour by Medicom Toy, premier at Florence. This celebration of Be@rbrick featured the original works by some of the graphic and graffiti artists, each had applied the own unique style. The company gave the pure white plain BB to the artists as a blank canvas, to make toy-icon to objet d'art. I will post each history of 7 BBs from this showcase later, I promise.

Knock-Knock!! some B-Boys knocked my door, of course I won't miss it. See you again in da "HOUSE", June 21-24, 06

Still freeze

I just passed the exam about Milan Men Fashion Week, so hectic. Will be the continue the MMM and Top10 soon. Bad news...next week is the hectic exam week again!!

to Jordan Silver, thanks for testimonial.

No.9

The September Sessions Soundtrack | Jack Johnson I looked for some tunes to inspire a summer (ago) collection. My colleague handed me this album. Then, I was introduced to the world of Jack's relaxing surf / beach type tunes, which is perfect with a cocktail with a miniature umbrella. This is not a studio-album, but a soundtrack of Jack-collaborated movie; The September Session. I didn't see this movie (I'd like to).
Track recommend: F-Stop Blues

MMMargiela's White World pt. two

The indoor events are the tough tasks, over ten pavillions spreaded around the Fortezza. After lack of direction, I finally decided to start at padiglione centrale, the biggest one. Bingo!! I met the first santuary of my white prigrimage. Photo Souvenir, photo booths as is in an airport or train station, visitors can have a souvenir photo taken at these booths. Their face will be incorporated into white image taken at MMM in Paris. They may even have their face superimposed on a group school of a class in white coats. Unfortunately, the machine were out of service then...i missed the shoot. BUT!! a journalist from the Italian monthly newspaper asked me to be a presenter, to shoot my body knee-down...so the star was my Jil Sander's boots. There're many events in pad. centrale. I moved on to interact a few; Grab A Cuddle, my favortite. A white 'grab and drop' soft toy machines usual of train stations, a gaming halls let visitors win the soft toys. Praise the fool!, I didn't notice the tokens given in the press's bag. I didn't succeed putting a euro coin to operate the machine...i missed the toys. (again) Musical White, music banks that visitors can relax on furniture taken from MMM in Paris and listen to 'white' music - songs and artists with either white, blanc, blanco or bianco, white-ever in their name. Ice Cream Flavours In White, a gelateria, so typical of Italy, proposed many flavour's of white ice cream i.e. coco, white chocolate. I got a ticket from the press meeting, a staff girl told me to get flowers?? Then I understood. Flower All Sorts In White, white flower seller sold fake and real flowers as bouquets or buttonholes. White sugar coated chocolate are made up of small posies of flower. Numbers And Names, white customised Tee. Visitors may customise white T-shirts as mementos of their visit to Pitte. Have you ever wondered what does the numbers in circle refered to? The answer is on the Tee. Caffe...??, the trompe l'oeil version of an existing Parisian tea room was brought to Pitti. This cafe provided refreshment for visitors. To be continued...

MIHARAYASUHIRO A/W 06-07

Incidentally got the invitation, also the venue located very closed to my school. I've known Mihara in 2000, from the design project with PUMA aka the MY series. He's been very successful in Japan...everyone knows his SOSU shoes stores. By the way, Is he ready for the international market? To be competed with other very strong strong competitors, he need something fresh, something very Japanese like his Japanese seniors did. Miyake has pleats and APOC, Kawakubo has decon-structure and Kenzo has printing...what is our Mihara has? Puma?? For A/W 06-07, he got inspired from a conceptual artist Victor Burgin. "Any previous moment to the present moment" is the quote of Mihara's winter. He took us back to the nostalgic American war field. Every details have their meanings and stories. The monotone grey palette reflects us the memories of the past, while wire and string that encapsulate the boots & pants is meaned to capture the time. (what a conceptual??) The look and styling made me think of the civil war between Capt. John Smith and the Natives, military details and fabrics, flair pants, puffy-fur Ponchos, the cowboy-style shirts and cowboy hats. Everything doesn't harmonize together...while i'm watching one look with the Berlin [Slimane] cut, suddently followed by one with the fur gloves as they're from McQueen's show. Some looks are like to be designed for his Puma trainer, while some are for the Converses..?? The best scene is going to the soundtrack. The Japanese tap artist was solo his talent all along the show, as I tired for him. If someone never seen Mihara before, have to think that this artist would be the designer himself. He tore and jumped out from the screen at the moment of the finale, of course, he got all eyes. I almost missed Mihara by the glance.

Roberto Cavalli Uomo A/W 06-07

What's a disaster!!!! Please take her off the runway.

Prada A/W 06-07

Prada goes Medieval!!! She took every guy's secret dreams; Romantic and Knight tales. I can tell from the place, atmosphere, and the presentation on the screens. The armies of Mrs. Prada trooped out with the new silhouette, completely different from last summer, which made every Prada men wanna be Italian-Marlon Brando-Gigolo. For A/W, the colors are the low keys and the wild is the key, no more Mr. neat guy. From the head-to-toe in weird proportion, the most ridiculous thing is the variety animals' fur helmets, which Ghesquiere did before. Followed by the aviator-sunglasses. The crop-legs pants are the new detail, which so get along well with the leather boots. The oversized cardigan makes you look like wearing 54, while the hip-length ,from Bengal to leopard-printed coats are so Alexander McQueen A/W 05 women collection!!. Quilt is coming!! spade at Burberry, and vertical at Prada, for her coat, also the bold-Herringbones leather jacket. I know that accessory line is profitable for the brand...the acc is fabulous. The new granite-printed leather, in the R,G,B colors, also in the lowkey, and burnt leather go to many bags. Here comes the new key-rings family!!!, the pony's tails, the chains and the medieval emblems...of course, no more robots and voodoo dolls. Prada goes wild!!!

New Thai Starshine

With a degree in British and American studies from the most influential political university in Thailand, the twenty-something year old Nuj Nowvakhet packed her bags and headed to the Parsons school of Design to follow her passion of fashion design. while Nul was studying, she freelanced styling for magazine and stage shows and volunteered to take care of children with HIV. They soon became the biggest driving force for her to accomplish her goals.

The S/S 06 collection, is inspired by Thai architecture and culture. It innovates and transcends, creating a modern oriental look that pushes the envelope of design. Nuj merged the far eastern and western perceptions of clothing, making this collection elegant yet glamorous. "I prefer to focus on silhouettes, darts, shoulders and putting together small complicated details that look easy on the eyes." The designer explained. "The concept is to create pieces the make lady look stunning"

This girl is from my country. How proud..

Burberry Prorsum A/W 06-07

There's nothing to say more about this collection. It's so-so for me. Obviously, Christopher Bailey always does the summer collection better than the winter one. Last time he got the inspiration for those particular outfits was the interior design guru David Hicks, remade the traditional Burberry trench. This time is a 70's rock star. The atmosphere, also the soundtrack made me think of British singer Robbie William. After the parade of earthtone outfits, almost worn with bobble knitting hat. The quilt-trenchs and double-breasted coats, pinstripe shirt and tuxido belt in the evening set, reminded me Gucci in Tom Ford period. The most extreme make-over; the houndtooth wool trench and leopard-printed sweater. I admitted that I'm in love with Prorsum's accessorie. Over-sized tartan weekend bag is my fab. From summer to winter, from floral to leopard, from cotton and denim to wool and cashmere, from David Hicks to Robbie William. From Interior designer to rock star!!